Kerin O’Keefe has established herself as one of the best commentators on Italy in recent years, particularly with the well-received Brunello di Montalcino: Understanding and Appreciating One of Italy’s Greatest Wines, which was one of the wine books of the year in 2012. Now, the Italian editor of Wine Enthusiast is back completing the holy trinity of Italy’s great wines with a focus on Barolo and Barbaresco. And, once again, she’s in terrific form. Beginning with an overview of the history of the wines and an analysis of the Nebbiolo grape, she easily moves on to discuss the origins of Barolo and the role of Louis Oudart, real or imagined, the ‘methanol scandal’ of 1986, and the debate over the souls of Barolo and Barbaresco between the so-called ‘modernists’ and traditionalists, among many other talking points in the first part of the book. The second section is devoted to profiles of key Barolo producers on a village-by-village basis, followed by a similar analysis of important Barbaresco producers. There is also a vintage guide that runs from 1945 to 2010. This is another fine study from one of the great wine commentators on Italy and is in the frame for wine book of the year. [Walter is also a big fan of this book and will be writing soon on one or two particular myths it exposes – JR.]
Originally published here: http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/books-of-the-year-2014
Kerin O’Keefe’s latest book was one of our reviewer’s six wine books of 2014, reviews of which we published free on Friday. Walter would also like to have his say on O’Keefe’s Barolo and Barbaresco.
Read Walter’s article: http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/debunking-barolo-myths
